by Sigi Scigliano

The native Spaniards I met walking through these charming villages always greeted us pilgrims with a huge smile and “Buen Camino”! Often they would have homemade treats for us to eat. There was mouth-watering fresh fruit harvested from their farms, cheese fresh from their dairy cows, piping hot bread, and lots of water and wine from their vineyards!  They were truly our “trail angels”.

I finally arrived at the albergue in Puente La Reina in the sweltering heat of the afternoon sun.  I had just gone to a bank, which was a treat since they were a rare find. When I arrived at the Albergues Santiago Apostol they asked for my passport and papers as a pilgrim. (This was usual as only those on the Pilgrimage can stay at most of these places and we were given stamps to show that we completed the steps along the Camino to get our official certificate.)

I couldn’t find my passport. Trembling from fatigue, I realized I must have left it in the bank in town, miles and miles away. Francisco, one of the workers at the albergue, said not to worry and called the bank. Though the bank was closed for the day Francisco convinced one of the bankers that he would drive me there and we could be there in a few,  if they would just open up so I could get my passport. It was magical moments like these I shall always treasure. The kindness of strangers, the smiles, the love, the sharing, the caring….Buen Camino to all!

Pamplona to Maribel Roncal, Spain

I had just left Pamplona where there was a music festival. The streets were packed with the native Spaniards in their regional dress singing joyously and dancing throughout the ancient streets. I was grateful it wasn’t the running of the bulls. A couple of people I met were going to a bullfight later but I passed not wanting to see the gore and headed about five miles more to the Maribel Roncal where I was staying for the night.  It was such a glorious day too and to top it all off…the hostel had a pool!

So after dipping my achy feet in the cold water and swimming in the pool I joined other pilgrims and watched “football”, Russia vs Spain. Russia won and the Spaniards with their melancholy faces and cries of despair drank their sorrows away.

I’ve been daydreaming, which helps as I hobble along many rolling hills, farmlands of smiling sunflowers, the flowing wheat, barley, and oats blowing in the wind, the jingling of cowbells, the bleating and maa’s of goats. I’m getting closer to Leon, Spain. In just a few days, I’ll be frolicking, and exploring the Masetta and Galicia parts of Spain with Emma!

Carrion, Spain

Finally, my clothes are dripping off me like my sweat which falls down my body from the sweltering heat of the Meseta.  My legs feel no pain! No blisters either! I feel truly blessed and grateful for this journey!

          I arrived at Carrion just in time to hear the nuns, novices, and pilgrims singing. The monastery at St. Maria was one of the most spiritual places I encountered on this pilgrimage. The joyful, melodic, angelic voices floated through the piazzas and beckoned me to the sacred halls of the monastery. The guitar was passed amongst the nuns, the novices, and the pilgrims as each sang from their hearts in prayer for a sacred, safe journey. I was sobbing, my heart opened and filled with such love and light knowing that we truly crossed all religious, cultural, and racial boundaries by lifting our spirits and voices with love.

As the last song drifted through my soul we held on to each other and swayed as we sang about The Camino. Afterward, we joined the nuns in the warmth of the kitchen.  Together, we started preparing these delicious foods we all brought to share in a celebratory feast. There were about 50 pilgrims from all over the world. We introduced ourselves and said where we were from and why we were on The Camino. 

People shared their dreams, hopes, fears, and love. It didn’t matter why each of us decided to take this journey.  We knew we were here to grow, learn, and appreciate this precious present. We are here to help and learn from one another…to love!

After the feast in Carrion, the nuns invited all of us to the church where they were going to have a special mass and blessing ceremony for us pilgrims. As a young Jewish girl, I often attended church with my best friend Gigi and she came to my synagogue with me. Traveling around this amazing world I’ve gone to many churches, sacred temples, monasteries, and the rare synagogue, (most were destroyed in WW II). As I sat in the back pew the priests and nuns began to chant. I was touched by angels as their voices echoed in my heart and uplifted my spirit. 

I don’t remember how long the service lasted. I was transformed once again. I slowly followed the procession to receive the sacred eucharist. As I approached the priest I bowed and said I was Jewish. He bowed and I opened my mouth to receive this blessing. The nuns giggled quietly as they gave me a colorful Jewish Star. I placed it in my mouth and once again the tittering of laughter began. I opened my eyes and the nuns told me it was a gift and not meant to be eaten ; ) I couldn’t wait to tell Emma. I see her rolling her eyes at me and having the biggest gaffe of them all as I took the Jewish Star out of my mouth and bowed in gratitude for this precious gift.